(Way) Off the Beaten Path

By Sarah Perdue
If you're like us, taking a cultural vacation means exploring the ways in which others live. Unfortunately, too often it actually means fighting through hordes of tourists en route to the gift shop. Which is why, dear friend, we propose the following alternatives. You won't find postcards to commemorate your visit to any of the places below, but we promise you won't miss them.
Balaji Healing Temple, Rajasthan, India.
For many tourists, a trip to India begins and ends with the Taj Mahal. Not that we recommend skipping it, but if you're turned off by large crowds, you might instead head for the Balaji Healing Temple. En route from Agra to Jaipur, people from across northern India flock to this sacred temple to alleviate their physical, emotional, and spiritual afflictions. Though its magnitude won't daunt you, its ceremonies will astound you. Sari-clad women perform various pujas to honor deities or family members, while an orchestra of voices utters mantras to a ritualistic backdrop of smoke and fire. To get there, hire a taxi in Jaipur or Agraand don't forget to ask the driver to wait for you while you're inside.
Els Quatre Gats, Barcelona, Spain.
Certainly there's no shortage of good restaurants and hopping nightlife in Barcelona, but how many establishments can boast that they hosted Picasso's first exhibit? Soon after opening its doors in 1879, 4 Gats became Barcelona's modernist meeting place. Situated in a neo-gothic building, the walls of this unique bar and restaurant have displayed an astounding range of modern art, as well as the shadows of many a puppet show. Thankfully, the bohemian atmosphere has been preserved through the years, with many contemporary replicas hanging in the dining room (in one case, from a chandelier). At night, 4 Gats hosts live music; call 93 30 2 41 40 for dates and times.
Monk's Bowl Village, Bangkok, Thailand.
Though not on par with, say, the valuations for your average b-to-b e-commerce site, you may be surprised to learn that, in at least one corner of the world, the trade in monk's bowls is thriving. As you walk down the alleyway that is Monk's Bowl Village, that metallic tap you hear is the sound of the black lacquered bowls--used by Thai monks to collect alms in town each morning--being pounded into shape out of eight strips of steel, one for each stage of the Buddhists' eightfold path. Yes, the bowls can be purchased by the likes of you. Expect to pay $10-15--pretty cheap considering that, on average, each smith can turn out but one bowl a day.
The Keyhole, Rome, Italy.
Visiting the Vatican can be a less-than-religious experience when it means rubbing shoulders with thousands of pilgrims. But there is hope. Just west of Vatican City on Aventine Hill, a keyhole in a garden door offers one of the most unique views of St. Peter's Basilica. The door is located across the street from the Church of Sant' Anselmo, in the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta's residence. The keyhole offers a framed view of the dome of St. Peter's--and you won't have to wait to see it. Plus, the trip up to Aventine along Via di Valle Murcia passes through two fragrant gardens, a much needed break from the bus fumes that strangle the city.
Outdoor Laundrette, Abidjan, Cote D'Ivoire.
Watching people wash their skivvies is not usually a Kodak moment, but you'll want to bring your camera this time. Starting at 6:30 every morning, hundreds of local washermen crowd a milelong stretch of stream in Parc du Banco, vigorously scrubbing clothes with black palm oil soap, whipping them on huge boulders, and then laying them out to dry on the river's banks. The men belong to a union that enforces strict rules for washing and drying and can be thrown out of the stream at any time for not following the edicts pertaining to rank. Though you don't need to be ther right at 6:30, don't dawdle either--the frothy action is over by early afternoon.
Mercado de Hechicería, La Paz, Bolivia.
If you've been contemplating casting a spell on that pushy mother-in-law or micromanaging boss, El Mercado de Hechiceria, aka The Witches' Market, will have just what you need. In addition to the standard array of herbs, the market deals in such wares as dried frogs, armadillos, and dead llama fetuses. Yatiri (witch doctors) wearing dark hats and carrying coca pouches can be spotted doing their weekly shopping while picking up a few extra bolivianos telling fortunes. Surprisingly, ingredients found at the market are used not just by witches, but also by workaday Bolivians. (A llama fetus, for instance, buried under your home for luck.)
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