Shandy’s and Spuds: Eating and Drinking Our Way Through Ireland

Rolling green hills, ancient castles and endless drafts of Guinness – all things that come to mind when one thinks of Ireland. But what do two women on a journey through Ireland’s West Coast do when they need a bite? Like everyone else in Ireland, we hit the pubs.

Ireland can’t compete with France or Italy when it comes to culinary masterpieces, and Ireland certainly isn’t known for its vineyards or grape harvesting seasons like Napa Valley or South Africa, but the Emerald Isle has a few unique eats and drinks. If there’s one thing I learned from Ireland, it’s that the Irish know how to drink. But how do they consume so much alcohol without falling face-first into their stew? The answer is in the starch.

Upon arriving in Galway, we dropped our bags at the B&B, grabbed a few pieces of toast, and headed the few short blocks to Eyre Square. First stop: Garvey’s Pub.

A small wooden table along the side of the bar was waiting for us and it softly whispered three sweet words: portions of fries. Famished from the red eye flight, we ordered two portions (otherwise known as ‘sides’). With our Bulmer’s pints by our side, we dressed the fries with malt vinegar, ketchup on the side, and devoured the traditional Irish side dish. I had no idea that potato portions would become my side du jour at every meal in Ireland.

One pint and a portion later, we set off in search of our next pub. Destination: The Quays. While my friend stuck with Bulmer’s – the local cider drink – I wanted to learn a little more about what Ireland had to offer in the drinks department. The bartender served up a shandy, and I was hooked.

A pint with half Smithwick’s beer and half red lemonade creates the perfect combination of fizz, fruit and barley. This red lemonade – which is only found in Ireland – is used to sweeten up just about any drink. Before moving on to my Jameson red (half-whiskey, half-red lemonade) it was time for our next meal.

Ireland isn’t known for its heart-healthy cuisine, so throw all diet rules out the door before stepping onto the island. Once you’ve accepted the calories and committed yourself to a minimum week-long cholesterol detox when you get back home, order the fish and chips, try a steak or two, and become one with your portions upon portions of potatoes.

The cod is fresh and the batter is substantial and seasoned. The steak is thick and served medium-rare, but if you require less-bloody meat it’s wise to ask for it well-done. And as for potatoes, you can have them baked, boiled, fried, wedged, smashed, sweet, as a croquette or patty, or scalloped.

Don’t worry if you can’t decide how to take your taters – you can order a portion of anything to accompany the meal. Thanks to the endless amounts of starch that one consumes during a typical Irish meal, you won’t care at all that the bartender ran out of red lemonade thanks to your endless pints of shandys.